The internet cafe is a dying breed in Europe... most people have their own computers here so places provide wi-fi access, but very few places have computers to use - which explains long gaps in my writing. Not that we would want to be lugging a computer with us on the bikes. We have been averaging about 60 km per day, with one long day of over 80 km as we pulled into a little town made over by the 198th anniversary (reenactment) of a famous battle, which caused us to push on (into a headwind no less).
Our route has taken us from Lisbon - Setubal - Vendas Novas - Evora - (Arraiolos) Estremoz - Elvas - (crossed into Spain) Badajoz - Merida - Valverde de Leganes - (back into Portugal) Mourao - Moura (where we are today). We plan to go onto to Serpa and then Beja (nice easy 30km days to wrap up), and take a train back to Libon to end our trip and fly out by the 22nd.
Cycling has been much nicer as we got away from the busy areas and onto nice country roads. Friendly people in little villages want to find out where we are from and what we are doing cycling - not seen here a lot. Lots of good coffee on the way (gellau in Portugal, cafe con leche in Spain) in little cafes and bars. Vineyards and olive groves for miles and miles with rolling hills beyond (and we have made peace with many of those hills! There is no flat area in this area of Portugal). Golden wheat fields, silvery olives, dark green grape vines, fields of purple wild flowers, white daisies, fragrant yellow bushes, purple lilac, and fields of bright red poppies (one of my favourites). Lots of song birds. People honking and waving to cheer us on - which surprisingly does help (just dont do it close behind!). Very hot sun at times, but still breezy and very cool nights - this area is arrid and on the edge of desert - weve seen very few rivers. Enjoying good food, cheap red wine and strong coffee - one good thing about cycling so much we enjoy the consuming and yet seem to be losing lots of weight! We have stayed in everything from roadside truck stop type accomodations to grand old hotels with high ceilings and tiled walls - its pretty quiet here right now so we have seen few other tourists - may be why we are geting lots of attention. People have helped us all over find places to stay.
We have been in bars watching football (soccer games) and lots of bullfighting going on right now - it is the kick off to the season and it is huge here - while I do not like the brutality of the fighting, and the Spanish fights show the kill - I can appreciate it for its grace and bravado - and I love it when the bull gets his due...several of the fighters have been gored and sent to hospital - one for the bulls! Very dramatic and exciting - without any injury the evening just doesnt seem complete for the audiences. Portuguese fights are very different and involve more action on horseback and men throwing themselves on the bull - not the traditional style we would moist be familiar with - most fights are braodcasting from Madrid.
Off to explore Moura - its castles and and cafes!

A ship is safe in harbour, but
thats not what ships are for. - William Shed